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Munich December 2004
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In December 2004 I went on a short pre-Christmas break with my parents (Edwin & Anne), and my girlfriend Korina too Munich in Germany, as well as a day trip to Salzburg in Austria. We stayed at the Holiday Inn Munich City Centre (formerly The Forum), which is ideally located for all the sights, lights and sounds of this terrific City. We all had a wonderful if not hectic time, with a fine blend of sightseeing at Odeonsplatz & Königsplatz etc, the fantastic christmas markets at Marienplatz & Karlsplatz, and of course the Tollwood at Theresienwise then there's the obliguatory visits to the beer halls and bars including the Hofbräuhaus, Löwenbräukeller, Ayinger, and Pusser's to name but a few.
Korina at the Christmas Market `Chriskindlemarkt` in Marienplatz after a traditional Bavarian winter warmer... a Glühwein!
Edwin tucking into his Schweinehaxe `Pork Knuckle` at the Weisses Bräuhaus im Tal This place is a bayerisch as it gets. You can shock your visitors by ordering brain, or any number of animal organs, which are all regular menu items. The food is good, and the service is typical Bavarian (fast, sometimes humorous, and sometimes downright pushy... but no waiting for a beer here!)
The four of us in Ayinger Am Platzl Brauerei Aying has a
long-standing reputation for excellence in beer and hospitality. Although
Ayinger Brewery was founded in a picturesque village 25 kilometers from Munich
in 1878, the site of the Ayinger Gasthaus Brewery Hotel has been one of
Bavaria’s most famous restaurants for more than 500 years. Ayinger beers are
characterized by their delicious balanced maltiness (not found in beers of the
major Munich breweries). Unlike the mass-market brewers, Ayinger maintains its
own maltings and even grows a significant portion of the barley malt
requirements
I'm hooked... In a land of wonderful breweries, Ayinger is considered a benchmark of excellence. Ayinger has been named "One of the Top Ten Breweries in the World" for four consecutive years in the prestigious World Beer Championships... And I have to say, I enjoyed my 5!
Marienplatz Chriskindlemarkt in front of the Rathaus Neues Rathaus (New Town Hall) was built between 1867 - 1909 in a Flanders Gothic style. Its facade is over 300 feet in length and features strikingly elaborate stone ornamentation. Its 260-foot tower is besides St. Peter's Church and the twin towers of the Cathedral one of Munich's most distinctive landmarks, the Church of our Lady. The carillon `Glockenspiel` which plays three times a day (11 am, noon and 5 pm) is extremely popular with Munich's visitors
The Old Town Hall and Christmas Tree Altes Rathaus (Old Town Hall) is situated at the eastern end of Marienplatz, it was constructed in 1474 in a Gothic style. It was unfortunately totally destroyed during the Second World War, so the city decided to restore the building in the 1950`s and 60`. The Council hall and ballroom are still used for concerts, lectures and receptions, though the tower now hosts a museum featuring old toys including famous Steiff Bears
A sight to behold... The Christmas market
is open from the 26th November - 24th December 2004.
Munich’s Christmas Market, or Christkindlmarkt, is almost as old as the world-famous local breweries. Originally called the Nicholas Market, the festive tradition dates back to the 14th century. The town’s annals first mention Christmas activity near the Frauenkirche (Church of our Lady) in 1642. “Oberammergau goods, Nuremberg Lebkuchen (ginger bread), cotton childrens-wear, crib figurines, and chimney sweepers made from plum and almonds” were among the wide range of exciting products on display. In 1806 the Nicholas Market altered its name and it wasn’t until 1972 - after several changes of address - that the Munich Christmas Market found its final home in the city centre at Marienplatz
Inside the courtyard of the Town Hall `Rathaus`
Robert at the Chriskindlemarkt stalls on Weinstraße near Marienhof
Odeonsplatz At Ludwigstraße
there is a Magnificent "showpiece" of Munich, extending from the Siegestor
(Triumphal Arch) to the Feldherrnhalle (Commanders' Hall). In the first half of
the 19th century King Ludwig 1st gave order to build this glorious avenue. Its
construction marked the transformation of Munich from a medieval town into an
imperial residence. The hall shelters statues of Bavaria's two greatest military
heroes: Johann Tilly, the imperial field marshal in the Thirty Years War, and
Karl Philipp von Wrede, the commander of the Bavarian corps originally allied
with Napoleon, which changed sides in time to help defeat the French at the
Battle of the Nations. Between the two is a memorial to the Bavarian dead of the
Franco-Prussian War. It was here on November 9, 1923 that armed police stopped
Hitler's Beer Hall Putsch in its tracks, opening fire on the future dictator's
band of would-be revolutionaries as they stood at the head of the narrow
Residenzstrasse, in the shadow of the Feldherrnhalle.
Theatinerkirche St.
Kajetan Located on Theatinerstraße (Odeonsplatz), the Basilica is in Italianate High Baroque style which had a major influence on all Southern German baroque architecture
The Hofgarten is one of the most important royal renaissance gardens north of the Alps. In the north and the west the garden is surrounded by arcades with a total of 125 arches. In the middle of the Hofgarten there is a temple dedicated to the goddess Diana, an open pavilion with 12 sides built in 1615. It is a truly wonderful green oasis in the middle of Munich. There is a café at one side - Tambosi, where we stopped off for some tea... with rum!, it is a wonderful spot to sit and relax in summer!
The Temple to Diana and the Bavarian State Chancellery Bavarian State
Chancellery `Bayerische Staatskanzlei` - Bavaria is Germany's largest and oldest
state. Its perception of itself and its sovereignty have evolved from a history
spanning over one thousand years and it's heritage is still alive today.
Although with a unique appearance of its own, Bavaria is yet inseparably linked
to German and European culture. The aim of Bavarian government policy is a
Bavaria with strong political institutions and healthy economy, living in social
harmony and conscious of its responsibilities to Germany and its obligations to
Europe
The Munich Residence is a complex of palaces around seven courtyards. The wonderful rooms contain antiques, sculptures, paintings and tapestries collected by the Wittelsbachs between the 16th and 19th centuries. Don't miss to visit the Schatzkammer (Treasury) to see some more royal treasures. The entire Residenz complex, including the Rococo Cuvilliés-Theater, was rebuilt and restored after World War II.
The "Bavarian
National Theater", which is the "Bayrische Staatsoper" ("Bavarian National
Opera") at the same time, was built from 1811-1818 in classisistic style. It was
almost completely destroyed in WW II, 1988 its reconstruction was finally
completed.
Edwin & Anne at Königsplatz Commissioned by
Ludwig I and later used as a Nazi marching ground, this neo-Classical square
boasts the Propylaen gateway and the Glyptothek, a small but enchanting
collection of Greek and Roman sculptures. It is also the sight of an annual
summer outdoor concert series
The Greek style temples of Königsplatz which house Art & Sculpture Galleries
The wall mounted Barrel in the Löwenbräukeller Am Stiglmaierplatz, which is located in the heart of Munich, 5 minutes from the famous “Koenigsplatz”
The tower and banquet halls of the famous Löwenbräukeller The keller contains a number of stüberl's, Hall's, including an impressive 2,000 seater main Banquet Hall; and a large beer garden. In total, the keller can accomadate nearly 4,000 people at any one time
The four of us after a few beers in the Löwenbräukeller's Bräustüberl
Munich Hofbräuhaus What can one say about the world's most famous beer hall that hasn't been said before. Despite popular lore, it's not just beer guzzlers from abroad that make the pilgrimage to this holiest of brewing sites (although we did) - the Germans visit in droves too (even Bavarians... well, Korina was with us!), because as the song says: wie schön ist's im Hofbräuhaus! So grab your litre beer maß, eat your wurst and shweinebraten or you can even sing and dance in Munich's most sacred institution
Noch eine maß bitte... Hofbräuhaus - The beloved beer hall was opened in 1644 and up to today it still lives up to its reputation: beer, food, tourists, oompah music and drunken revelry. Check out the wall of beer steins, personalized and locked away for their owners. Please note: Tables labeled with "Stammtisch" are reserved for regulars, this is by the way true for all Bavarian restaurants, although we don't tend to take too much notice of this, as in the beer halls, a table is a table! They are a little like buses in England, there is nothing for ages... then 3 come along at once!
Here we all are... Korina, Robert, Edwin & Anne
My father's broken finger (which he moaned about all weekend) makes it's first... yet not last appearance in our piccies
The famous Painkiller cocktail at Pusser's New York Bar The connection to the city that never sleeps or to the Empire State is tenuous at best, as it is themed upon the British Virgin Islands. However, this dark bar with a nautical theme specialises in arguably the world's best cocktail - the Painkiller, created in the Soggy Dollar Bar on the island of Jost van Dyke in the Caribbean. Concocted with tropical ingredients and the very potent Pusser's rum, your senses will be numb in no time - hence the name.
A Painkiller #4 and a Gin Fizz... that'll kill the pain!
A few beers at Rizzos Jam Bar on Rosenheimer Str
Bright eyes...
The Tollwood winter festival at Theresienwise Theresienwiese -
Theresien Field is mainly known as the site of the Oktoberfest, and is also
referred to as the "Wies'n". Basically it is a huge flat empty area, part field,
part concrete where many festivals take place throughout the year. If a festival
is on during your visit, such as Tollwood or the Oktoberfest, it is well worth
going there Tollwood is the
biggest of Munich's Christmas markets, it is a music and arts festival held
twice a year in Munich. The Winter festival runs for the entire month of
December on Theresienwiese, the site of the Oktoberfest. There are hundreds and
hundreds of little stalls selling all manner of stuff like magic healing
crystals and tie-dye henna bedthrows. There are also 10 giant tents which house
yet more stalls, a food plaza, and live music and circus venues. The festival
will climax on New Year's Eve with various special shows, concerts, and
fireworks
Robert at the Statue of Bavaria Ruhmeshalle - The Bavaria Hall of Fame is an open hall in Graeco-Roman style and was constructed in 1843-1853 by Leo von Klenze. It honours distinguished persons of Bavarian history. The bronze statue in front of the hall represents the State of Bavaria, known as the Statue of Bavaria. In summer it is open to the public, you can enjoy a good view of the city skyline from the top of the statue through the eyes of the statue If you look closely at the statue, you can see that she is holding something in her right hand, which I think is a Brezn (or at least should be!), as this is the home to the world famous Oktoberfest!
Inside the Tief Im Wald tent at the Tollwood
The East West Swing Company jazz band The bald headed trumpeter in the band photo'd above is the spitting image of someone a few of the visitor's to the site may know... Skammy! (Steven Skim)
Robert, Korina, and Anne
It's kid's stuff...
Dancing in the spotlight...
A few semi-proffessional dancers appeared from a Munich dance `Tanz` Club to show everybody how it is done... I have to say, they were pretty damn good... as were the band!
Bright eyed and bushy tailed...
Auf Wiedersehen...
I see a sign...
The S-Bahn to our Hotel
Cafe Atlas Cafe Atlas is owned
by the same people who run News Bar, Roma and Odeon too, one of its best
features is the big Terrasse outside, surrounded by a glass wall that acts as a
wind and noise break, which makes it a superb sunny candidate for a summery
lunch date or autumnal coffee; unfortunately it was not summer or autumn... so
it was inside for us. The place is a fair size and is always quite busy, yet not
packed; It is located right behind the Muffathalle or Gasteig. I have to say, I
had the Wiener Schnitzel, and it was probably the best that I have ever had
The Hotel Bar `Hoch 3` in the Holiday Inn Munich City Centre - Formerly the Forum Hotel, located on Hochstraße just off Rosenheimer Straße. It is opposite the Kulturzentrum Gasteig, and very near to the Volksbad, Muffathalle, Deutsches Museum & IMAX Cinema
A mirror image...
Lazy dayz... There's that finger again!
The Ice Rink at Karlsplatz
The Münchener
Eiszauber (Munich Ice Magic) is Munich's largest open air ice rink. It is open
from 26th November 2004 till 29th January 2005. In previous years the ice rink
always used to be located on Marienhof behind Marienplatz. This year they are
continuing to dig the new U-Bahn station so the rink is at Karlplatz Stachus
instead. Cooling technology allows the ice rink to stay open so long as air
temperatures remain below 10 degrees Celsius
The food & drink stalls at the Eiszauber
I have to be honest, I have been to the Eiszauber before at Marienhof, but it looks a lot better at Karlsplatz, obviously I didn't actually do any skating... being on crutches!
Robert at the Karlstor Karlstor (Charles' Gate) is the western town gate that dates back to the 14th century. Since the end of the 18th century it is integrated into the square known as "Stachus" (officially called Karlsplatz). Today the Karlstor marks one end of Munich's primary pedestrian shopping zone
A relaxing chilly stroll from Karlsplatz through the pedestrianised streets of Neuhauserstraße and Kaufingerstraße to market at Marienplatz
Michaelskirche `St. Michael's Church on Neuhauserstraße
The candle lit Hirmer store and the Church of our Lady `Frauenkirche` The Fraunekirche - Cathedral Church of Our Lady at Frauenplatz is a Metropolitan Church of the Archbishopric of Munich-Freising. It has a late Gothic nave from the 15th century, and hosts an interior with works of art spanning over five centuries; it is the main landmark for the City of Munich, and is embroiled on almost all emblems, postcards and souveniours of the City
The sunny splendour of the Rathaus
St. Peter's Church `Peterskirche` and the Old Town Hall `Alte Rathaus` Peterskirche (Church
of St. Peter) is the oldest parish church in Munich; it has an ornate interior
which was decorated with old masters from 6 centuries.
Mariensplatz Every evening, at 5.30pm, local groups from the Alpine foothills and the city sing and perform Christmas carols from the balcony of the Town Hall. Bavaria’s multicultural music scene ensures a very eventful programme, with alpine melodies, international folklore, choral music and brass ensembles. This is the perfect opportunity to take rest and get a Glühwein or a bite to eat
Standing to Attention... The best way to feel
the spirit of Christmas is by taking a stroll through the cheerful market. As
you move from stall to stall, you will find yourself charmed by a fascinating
array of tree decorations from nostalgic to modern, tiny to bombastic, designed
to spoil any visitor for choice. Under the soft, glowing lights of the stalls,
you can easily select from an irresistible collection of craftwork, candles,
ceramic and toys made of tin or wood. There are over 140 stands - enough to
satisfy even the most eccentric taste.
A last walk around the Christmas market at Marienplatz
Edwin & Anne at Marienplatz
All photographs were taken in Munich - Germany from the 9th to 13th December 2004. |
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