Amalfi October 2006

nother day, another day trip, our final day trip actually, and this time it is off to Amalfi... which is a town and commune in the province of Salerno, in the region of Campania, Italy, on the Gulf of Salerno, 24 miles southeast of Naples. It lies at the mouth of a deep ravine, at the foot of Monte Cerreto and is surrounded by dramatic cliffs and coastal scenery. The town of Amalfi was the capital of The Maritime Republic of Amalfi, an important trading power in the Mediterranean between 839 and around 1200. The main reason for us visiting Amalfi was to see my Sister and her family, as it is a convenient mid location to meet, as Korina and I have bothe been there before, but it was another first for Cailan.

As nearly all day trips start in the Bay of Naples or on the Amalfi Coast... it starts with a boat trip

Coast to Coast

Capri

Hello Sailor... Cailan on another boat trip

Positano

Perhaps the best example of a “nativity village”, with its distinctiveness that strikes both the heart and the eyes. Extended along the slopes of the mountains Comune and Sant’Angelo a Tré Pizzi and uniting by the sea. Positano is a sort of open-air museum, enriched by its liveliness, colours, history and character. From the first decade of the 1900’s, painters, writers, musicians, bohemian artists and members of the international jet-set have continued to frequent the area, resulting in its cosmopolitan atmosphere becoming known all over the world. The residences of Positano, white, pink and yellow houses, weave themselves, spiralling, around terraces shaded by palms, lemon-trees, flower-filled gardens and cascading, multi-coloured bougainvillaea. In a picturesque winding path, made up of passageways, stairs and steps, you follow a maze of intricate alleyways and little squares, filled with a myriad of colourful shops and arty boutiques. With regards to the shopping, the foremost thing on offer is clothing, famously known internationally as “Positano fashion”

In this vibrant kaleidoscope of colours and noise sits, above the Marina Grande, the great majolica mosaic dome of the Santa Maria Assunta church. Inside, baroque alters and a table dating back to the 12th Century. The parish is a world away from everything else, where silence and contemplation reigns supreme

Positano Harbour

The Amalfi Coast

For those who have not ever visited it may be difficult to understand; sometimes words are not enough to describe the feelings and emotions provoked by the Amalfi Coast. An exaggeration? It could be, but the area is so extraordinary that you need to see it with your own eyes to fully comprehend its beauty. A first glance is enough to see its uniqueness. Rocks, sea, sheer drops and sheltered, cliff-side villages make up its rich tapestry. Following one single road (Highway 163) that, after every turn, provides an ever different and evocative panorama. Amongst the many communities, today we have chosen two Positano and Amalfi, each one of them with it’s own character, and representative of the best towns and villages charmingly known as “nativity villages”

Shoreline

Positano is the most famous and most popular of all the places along the Amalfi Coast. The best view of Positano is from the sea. From that angle, you can see how extremely close the houses are packed together; they are arranged into tiers and those tiers form an "amphitheatre" around the church. Speaking of the church...there is a sculpted relief above the entrance to Santa Maria Assunta's bell tower. This was once inside the church. The relief depicts the head of a dog, the breasts of a woman, clawed paws, dophin tail, and the body of a fish! Most people think that it is reminding the church goers that evil often prevails over good. The Benedictine Monks founded this church. Years ago a first-century Roman villa was discovered below the bell tower. They found mosaics, mural paintings & columns. The movies and some books have painted a picture of "passion" associated with Positano. Young girls want to meet one of the "beautiful young men". Some do come for a "fling" and leave with just memories; others simply stay. Not only are the sights beautiful and unforgettable but the culinary creations are memory worthy! I especially liked what they call Scialiatielli which is a fresh pasta that is made with flour, milk, parmesan cheese, parsley or basil and covered with tomatoes and a mozzarella-like cheese. Some of our best meals were right here

Robert, All at Sea as we dock in Amalfi

Proud of its beautiful and glorious past, although not pretentious, Amalfi is the oldest of the Maritime Republics and is situated more or less in the centre of the coastline to which it gives its name. Once in the town, your visit should start with the historical sites and monuments, like the ancient armouries that still seem to echo the frantic work of the axe masters. It was here, in fact, that they made a famous galley with over 100 oars, destined for trading with the Orient

Porta Della Marina

A few steps on and you are struck by the size of the Duomo (dedicated to Sant’Andrea) located at the top of a flight of steps, bustling, especially in the evenings, with young people. When visiting the cathedral, despite the reconstruction and restoration works, you can admire various architectural styles (the most evident being the Gothic, the Roman-Amalfitano and the Moorish that characterise the whole city). Then, don’t forget, alongside the Duomo, the Cloister of Paradise, the jewel of 1268. In order to capture the true spirit of Amalfi it is recommended to leave the main roads, that are always full of tourists, and zigzag your way through the small, narrow streets between the houses, winding your way through the little squares and covered passages. The unique atmosphere of the city will surprise you. Finally it is worthwhile enjoying the walk to the Valle dei Mulini (Valley of the Mills), which you can reach by taking the central street via Lorenzo d’Amalfi

Thirsty work all this tourism stuff...

Beers and Ice Cream

Photoshoot

Julie, Giuseppe, Vincenzo, Edwin Christina (Italian Mob)

Korina and Cailan (German Mob)

Where Next

Lunchtime at the Puppet Theatre

Stringing us along...

Table Dancers

Another Ice Cream please, hot weather this

Robert, Korina and Cailan

After Lunch... Limonjello

Dadda

Vincenzo and Edwin atop the steps of the Duomo

Sitting on the steps of the cathedral was a nostalgic fond memory as I recalled sitting here on these very same steps 10 years before as a young free and single lad travelling. It also puts the size of the cathedral into perspective. In case you are wondering there are 57 steps up to the cathedral. Today the cathedral is a popular place for weddings and many brides can be seen posing on the steps in this stunning setting for their wedding pictures...

The Catholic Encyclopedia notes that Saint Andrew's relics were brought from Constantinople to Amalfi in Campania, by the Amalfitan Pietro, cardinal of Capua, in 1210 after the completion of the town's cathedral. The cathedral, dedicated to St Andrew (as is the town itself), contains a tomb in its crypt that it maintains still holds a portion of the remains of the body of the apostle. You can also see a golden requiary which originally housed his skull and another one used to parade the bones around Amalfi on holy days